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Whether you’re a new driver, or have been on the road for years, there are bound to be some driving habits that annoy you. In fact, you might be unknowingly be ‘that person’ who’s doing something unsafe on the road that annoys the drivers around you.

It’s important to be aware of your driving and how it affects those around you. Driving on the road in New Zealand assumes common courtesy and respect for all road users and it can be the ‘make or break’ of whether you’re going to have a pleasant drive or not. Unfortunately, all drivers can relate to the fact that ‘common courtesy’ isn’t that common at all.

Here are some unsafe driving habits that drivers display and which you should avoid or stop.

Not using your indicators

Not signalling before a turn is not only dangerous for other drivers on the road, but pedestrians and cyclists too. It prevents them from anticipating what you’re doing and increases the risks of an accident. That’s why it’s important to stick to the first rule of driving: mirror, signal, manoeuvre.

However, also be aware that leaving your indicators on for too long can be just as annoying. And, if you turn your indicators on too early, other drivers won’t know when you’re turning, which makes the use of signals of no value.

Tailgating

Having someone follow your car very closely can be intimidating and stressful. If this happens to you, the best thing to do is let them pass. After all, no one should feel anxious about having to brake suddenly if a situation calls for it.

If you’re following a car that’s travelling slower than you’d like, try your best to avoid tailgating it. Instead, wait for a passing lane, or pass if they pull over to the side.

Aggressive driving can not only cause an accident but can also mean you end up on the wrong end of a vindictive reaction, like sudden brake-checking – a sharp stab on the brake. Don’t let a slow driver push you into road rage – simply slow down and follow the two-second following rule.

Not sticking to the speed limit

Going over or under the speed limit is a bad habit that is bound to frustrate other drivers and your passengers. When you’re driving too fast, it’s more difficult to avoid speed bumps, potholes, and blind corners, which can make other road users anxious and increase the risks of an accident. And, if you’re driving too slowly, this can cause others to become frustrated, which can lead to risky driving manoeuvres so they can pass. It’s perfectly acceptable to drive at your own pace but be mindful to keep left and always look for opportunities to let others pass.

Not checking your blind spot

Most of us have been in a situation when a car in the lane next to us suddenly moves across into our lane, forcing us to swerve suddenly to avoid an accident. This is a direct result of a driver not looking over their shoulder at their blind spot before moving over. Make it a habit to always glance over your shoulder before pulling into traffic or changing lanes.

Ignoring traffic lights

When the traffic light goes amber, we all know this is an indication the lights are about to turn red. If you know you’re going to make it through the intersection before the lights turn red, or if you’re not able to stop safely in time, it’s ok to driver through on an amber light. But, if you’re putting your foot down because you’re too impatient to wait, this is a dangerous habit you should break. It’s dangerous and not worth the risk of a major – and potentially life-threatening – collision.

Using your mobile phone

It’s illegal to be on your cellphone when you drive but, despite this law, hundreds of Kiwis still get distracted by devices. Data released by the New Zealand Transport Agency Waka Kotahi shows that in 2020 there were two fatal crashes, three serious crashes, 68 minor crashes, and 88 non-injury crashes where cellphone use was a factor. If you know you get easily distracted by your phone, put it in the glove box and keep your hands on the wheel and your eyes on the road.

Your brakes are one of the most important safety systems on your car – allowing you to control the speed of your car and bring it to a stop safely. Unfortunately, many drivers don’t consider brake maintenance a priority until something goes wrong.

Brakes need to be regularly maintained and inspected to make sure they’re working correctly and effectively to keep you and other road users safe. Your brake pads are checked during your routine Warrant of Fitness (WoF) check, but it’s important to recognise the signs that your brake pads need to be replaced.

What are brake pads and how do they work?

A typical vehicle braking system has a pair of brake pads, a brake disc and a brake calliper for each wheel. The brake pads are fitted in the calliper with their friction-creating material almost touching the sides of the brake disc.

When the brake pedal is pressed, hydraulic fluid in the calliper is released, which pushes each brake pad against the sides of the rotating brake disc. This causes friction, which slows and eventually stops your vehicle.

Because of how brakes work, they eventually wear down over time. If your brake pads get too thin, your brakes won’t work as effectively, or they may even fail.

5 signs you need new brake pads

1. You hear squealing noises

This is usually the first sign you need to replace your brake pads. Most modern cars are manufactured with built-in wear indicators, so when the brake pads wear down significantly, the indicators scrape, causing a high-pitched screeching noise. Squeaky brakes can happen during certain weather conditions too, such as rain, but if the sound is persistent, you should get them checked.

2. Your car doesn’t brake as effectively as it used to

This could be because your brake pads and discs are old and worn, the brake fluid could be old and has absorbed moisture, or the hydraulic system could be losing fluid and pressure.

3. Your car pulls to the left or right

Your car should remain travelling in a straight direction when you brake. If it doesn’t, this can clearly be dangerous. Brake pads don’t generally wear out at the same rate so, if your brakes are worn more on one side than the other, pulling to one side may happen. Additionally, there are other reasons why your car may be pulling left or right, such as uneven tyre pressure, a faulty wheel bearing, or a malfunctioning brake calliper. Either way, you should get your car checked by your mechanic so they can get to the bottom of the pulling problem.

4. Vibrations when you step on the brake pedal

If your brake pedal vibrates when you push your foot down on it, this is a sign you might need to replace your brake pads. This is because brake pads are usually held together with a binding resin. As each of the brake pads wears down, this binding gets hot and spreads across the brake disc.

Ideally, it will form a layer that’s spread evenly across the disc’s surface. But, if a brake pad overheats, the resin doesn’t distribute evenly. This is known as ‘glazing’, where the pad material hardens to form a glassy, smooth surface. Uneven glazing can cause your brake pads to vibrate. To avoid any further damage to your car, or a potential accident, get your car checked right away.

5. Stopping your car takes more effort

Pressing on your brakes without bringing your vehicle to a full stop can take a toll on your braking mechanism over time. Forcing the brake pads to make contact with the discs for a long, uninterrupted time will cause both parts to heat up. Over time, their ability to generate the needed friction against each other will reduce and you’ll find your car won’t come to a stop as easily and as quickly as it once did. This is called ‘brake fade’.

People typically associate driver training with new drivers – those who have never driven before and need to learn the basics before sitting their driving test. While they’re not wrong, even the most seasoned driver could do with a refresher on driving basics, so they can stay safe on the road.

In 2020, the Ministry of Transport New Zealand reported 320 road-related deaths. The causes of most road-related deaths are not due to impaired driving, but improper driving. Mistakes while driving can be costly, and sometimes even deadly.

Structured driver training is the best way to ensure drivers are confident and learn healthy driving habits. This means that when they get on the road, they are both confident and cautious – whether it’s their first or five-hundredth time behind the wheel.

While you often can’t prevent a car accident from happening, driver training can make it less likely to happen. Drivers are taught the best driving practices while on the road, which helps eliminate bad driving habits. Here are some things you need to know about driver training, why it’s important, and why everyone should do it at least once.

What is driver training?

Driver training comprises structured courses that are taught in a classroom and on the road. It gives people the skill, knowledge, and confidence to be better drivers. They teach skills that can help you reduce the likelihood of being involved in a vehicle crash, such as scanning your surroundings while driving, detecting hazards, and managing risks.

For new drivers, it is a useful way to gain an initial knowledge of driving basics, which they can then apply while practising with a family member or other support person. For restricted licence holders, completing a Defensive Driving Course can fast track them to getting their full licence more quickly and increases their chances of passing their driving test first time. It also makes them a safer driver.

What do you learn in driver training?

When drivers are properly trained, the risk of accidents is reduced in several important ways. First, they are reminded of driver safety best practice and are therefore less likely to adopt risky driving behaviours. While in driver training, any bad habits that they’ve picked up from observing other drivers can be identified and resolved.

They will also learn to identify hazards, such as poor weather conditions and heavy traffic. This will help them prepare for them and react appropriately when they’re encountered.

Drivers also learn how to be more comfortable while driving, including understanding ergonomics, such as how to reduce pain and fatigue. This will improve a driver’s concentration and overall wellbeing, reduce the opportunity for road rage, and encourage safer vehicle operation.

3 types of driver training courses

1. Supplementary driver training

Supplementary driver training is learning how to drive a special type of vehicle on the road and getting an endorsement for this vehicle added to your licence. Examples are forklifts and tractors. A driver learns how to operate these vehicles and to safely navigate and handle them on the road. Find out more about the requirements from New Zealand Transport Agency Waka Kotahi.

2. Defensive driver training

Defensive driving courses teaches people how to become safer and more skilful drivers on the road. It provides them with the necessary tools to avoid or overcome driving situations that could have proven difficult or even disastrous under normal conditions.

It also gives restricted licence holders a time reduction on their licence. If you’re under 25 years old the time period reduces from 18 months to 12 months and, if you’re 25 years and older, it reduces from 6 months to 3 months. Defensive driving is usually aimed at younger drivers.

3. Advanced driver training

Advanced driving courses have a similar learning curriculum to defensive driving courses but are aimed at all types of drivers.

Being able to drive is extremely important for many seniors, as it helps them remain independent and mobile – especially if they live in rural areas.

Despite the years of experience older drivers may have, Waka Kotahi NZ Transport Agency says that the fatality rate for a 75-year-old motor vehicle occupant is approximately three times higher than for someone under 25 years. This is because physical and mental vulnerabilities can affect safe driving increase with age.

However, there needs to be a balance between retaining the quality of life for senior drivers and keeping them and others on the road safe. As people age, their bodily and sensory changes become more frequent, meaning they need to renew their driver’s licence more often.

Here are some things senior drivers need to know about licence renewals:

• Your licence will be valid for only two to five years.
• The renewal fees are lower because you’re renewing your licence more often.
• You need to present a medical certificate each time you apply.
• If recommended by your doctor, you will need to sit a 30-minute On-road Safety Test.

Renewing your driver’s licence

If you wish to continue driving you must renew your driver’s licence on or before the expiry date and no sooner than six months in advance.

Waka Kotahi NZ Transport Agency will send you a driver’s licence renewal pack approximately eight weeks before your licence is due to expire. You can download the driver’s licence application form (DL1), or you can get a copy from any driver licensing agent.

To apply to renew your licence, you need to visit a driver licensing agent in person.

Here’s what you need to take with you when you go in to renew your licence:

• A completed driver’s licence application form
• A current medical certificate issued by your doctor within the last 60 days
• Your current driver’s licence, or other acceptable evidence of identity
• EFTPOS, credit card or cash to pay for your new licence.

Once your application has been processed, you will be issued a temporary licence that is valid for 21 days. Remember to keep this on you whenever you’re driving, until your new licence arrives in the mail. This can take between two to three weeks.

Getting a medical certificate

You need a medical certificate from your doctor if you want to renew your licence past your 75th birthday. When visiting your doctor, let them know that the certificate is for your driver’s licence.

During your appointment, your doctor will discuss your present state of health with you and test your eyesight. They will then recommend one of the following:

• Medically fit to drive.
• Medically fit to drive with conditions (eg correcting lenses, time-of-day restriction, distance restriction).
• Medically fit to drive subject to an on-road safety test.
• Medically fit to drive if a specialist agrees (eg optometrist or occupational therapist driving assessor – your doctor will advise you of the results).
• Not medically fit to drive.

If your doctor decides you aren’t fit to drive, they must let Waka Kotahi NZ Transport Agency know and your licence will expire.

If they advise you are medically fit to drive, they will provide you with a Medical certificate for a driver’s licence, which you must present when you renew your licence.

Keeping your road knowledge up to date

It’s important to refresh your knowledge of driving and the road rules, so you can stay safe behind the wheel for as many years as possible.

Waka Kotahi NZ Transport Agency have free resources for seniors on their website, including:

• A self-driving assessment where you can compare your ability with the requirements for safe driving. There are also suggestions on how you can improve each driving skill that is identified.
• Information on using public transport and alternative transport schemes.
• Information on supporting senior drivers.

Wearing a correctly adjusted seat belt is one of the simplest ways of reducing the risk of serious injury or death in the event of a motor vehicle crash. By law, everyone must wear a seatbelt in New Zealand.

While it sounds very simple, a report by the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) shows that each year approximately 90 people are killed on New Zealand roads because they’re not wearing a seatbelt.

Waka Kotahi NZ Transport Agency reports that wearing a seatbelt reduces the risk of serious injury or death in a road crash by about 40%. If everyone wore their seat belts, an estimated 25% of lives could be saved from road crashes each year.

And, while we’ve heard it all before, we know it’s true: seatbelts save lives. Making sure your seatbelts are used to keep you and your passengers safe should be a priority. Here are our tips on what to look out for and how to make sure your seatbelts are working the way they should.

What is a seatbelt?

Seatbelts (also known as safety belts) are designed to minimise injury by transferring the force of a crash away from the vulnerable parts of your body, such as your stomach, to areas that are better able to provide resistance, like your pelvis.

A seatbelt consists of the following:

• Webbing – the nylon strap that holds you to your seat. It’s designed to stretch during a crash as it holds you in place. Once the belt is stretched in an accident, it needs to be replaced so it can continue to protect the person using it.
• Buckle – this is where you clip the seat belt into the side of your seat.
• Tongue – the webbing goes through this piece of metal, and it clips into the buckle to hold the seat belt in place.
• Retractor – this is the spring-loaded reel that pulls up and holds any excess webbing. It usually spins free to keep the belt out of your way. Under hard braking or during a crash, it locks to hold you in place.
• Anchors – these are the bolts that attach the seatbelt hardware to the body of the car.

How does a seatbelt work?

If you’re in a crash, your seatbelt protects you by:

• reducing the risk of you being thrown out of the vehicle
• holding you in the position where you receive the most benefit from protective devices such as airbags
• reducing the risk of you being thrown around the vehicle and injuring yourself and the other occupants
• reducing the likelihood of hitting other objects within the vehicles, such as the back windscreen and front seats.

Inspecting and maintaining your seatbelts

Perfectly fitted seatbelts offer the vehicle occupants the best protection in a crash, which is why it’s so important to make sure they remain in good working order. Here’s what you need to check regularly:

• The seatbelt webbing material isn’t frayed, cut, or damaged in any way. If you spot anything, get the belt replaced.
• The seatbelts are not twisted.
• Buckles engage and release properly.
• Both tongue and buckle are not cracked, rusted or damaged in any way that might affect their strength and performance.
• Seatbelt retractors work well, that is, the seat belt pulls out smoothly, retracts completely when it’s not in use, and it locks when you give it a hard pull. If any of these functions don’t work properly, replace the belt.
• All the anchors are bolted in tightly and there are no signs of rust.
• The seat belt warning device (if fitted) is working.

You should inspect and maintain your seatbelts if required at least once a year. You should also do these checks after every crash, no matter how small it may be.

Electric vehicles (EVs) are becoming more popular, and they offer a cleaner, more sustainable future. New Zealand is well-placed to benefit from EVs because more than 80% of our electricity is generated from renewable sources and there is enough supply for the widespread adoption of EVs.

Research shows that pure EVs have around 60% fewer carbon dioxide emissions than petrol vehicles and around 80% fewer carbon dioxide emissions when driven in New Zealand. So why are people worried about investing in them?

One of the most common reasons for people not considering an EV is something called ‘electric vehicle range anxiety’. This is when an EV battery charge is low, and the usual sources of electricity are unavailable. It sparks a fear of getting stranded somewhere, which adds time, inconvenience, and stress to a journey.

EV range anxiety is understandable; after all, we experience something similar with petrol vehicles when the dreaded empty light comes on and there’s not a petrol station in sight. Of course, there’s a slight difference because there are still more petrol stations than charging stations currently.

Range anxiety can be a problem, but the good news is that there are some things you can do to reduce the perceived stress of owning an EV.

Consider getting a plug-in hybrid

Plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEVs) have a rechargeable battery along with a traditional internal-combustion engine that kicks in if the vehicle runs out of battery power. As long as you can recharge your PHEV or find a gas station when the fuel tank gets low, you won’t be stranded.

PHEVs are also recharged using a standard household electric outlet, so you won’t need any special equipment, apart from the charging cord that came with your vehicle.

Install a home charging station

The most economical way to run your EV is to charge it at home during off-peak hours. This is when electricity demand is at its lowest across New Zealand. Charging at home overnight is also a great way to ensure you have enough charge to get you to where you need to be the following day.

There are two types of charging stations you can opt for: a wall-mounted unit or a portable 3-pin cable. A wall-mounted unit is a dedicated charging unit that makes charging your EV simple, safe and efficient.

A portable 3-pin cable is provided with your EV and these are typically used when other charging options aren’t available. Bear in mind that they are slower at charging than wall-mounted units and commercial chargers.

Find your range

It’s important to know how far your EV can go before it needs to be charged. Let’s look at the new Nissan Leaf as an example. When fully charged, its range is approximately 247kms, which is just over the distance from Auckland Central to Rotorua (227km). However, factors such as using air conditioning or carrying heavy luggage can drain the battery faster.

Planning is important

EVs are fine to use if you’re going on a long road trip – it just requires a bit more preparation. Use websites such as ChargeNet or Plugshare to find charging stations on your route so you know where you need to stop to charge your vehicle.

While this may seem tedious, it’s a great excuse for a break. After all, taking regular breaks on long road trips will help you drive safely and stay focused on the road too.

While it may seem a bit daunting now, it’s important to remember that we will adapt and get used to the concept of electrical mobility. Over time, there will be more charging stations available, and we will become more familiar with the range of electric vehicles, so rang anxiety will become less of an issue.

When it comes to debating the pros and cons of an electric vehicle (EV), the question that comes up the most is the cost of an EV versus a petrol vehicle and whether you can really save money. There are several key factors to consider when weighing up the cost of running an EV versus a petrol vehicle.

Types of EVs

EVs have a battery that’s charged through the power grid or home energy capture, such as solar power. Plug-in hybrid electric vehicles (PHEVs) have a rechargeable battery, along with a traditional internal-combustion engine that kicks in if the vehicle runs out of battery power. A hybrid also has a battery and a combustion engine that work together but it doesn’t need to be plugged in – the electricity is generated through the motor and regenerative braking.

How do you charge an EV or PHEV?

Simply plug the charging cable into your EV or PHEV (one end into the car and the other end into a three-point power socket in your home) and let it charge.

There are also public chargers all around the country. Find the closest one to you through the Charge and Plugshare websites. Public chargers are much faster than if you charged at home and they can refill a battery in as quickly as 20 minutes. Bear in mind that these chargers aren’t free – they cost more than charging at home because of how quickly they recharge a vehicle.

Upfront costs

When it comes to upfront costs, EVs are more expensive. The cheapest EV in the New Zealand market costs around $49,000 but used imported EVs can cost less than half the price. Bear in mind that the condition and health of a second-hand EV won’t be as good as a brand new one – particularly when it comes to battery health.

The good news is that the New Zealand government is offering a Clean Car Discount (CCD) for EVs registered in New Zealand for the first time up to the end of March 2022. Find out more about the CCD and the eligibility criteria on the Waka Kotahi (NZ Transport Agency) website.

Maintenance costs

One of the most cost-effective reasons to own an EV is their low maintenance requirements. A fully electric EV has around 20 moving parts compared with approximately 2,000 in a fuel-powered vehicle.

For example, an EV doesn’t need an oil change or filter and it doesn’t have a gearbox or spark plugs, so there’s less to take care of. Its servicing needs are lower as a result, and the regenerative braking system also saves wear on the brakes.

The cost of charging

If, like most Kiwis, you drive an average of 25-30km a day, the cost of charging an EV is equivalent to paying 30c per litre for petrol. Charging your EV while you sleep costs about $3 per 100km, depending on the EV model.

For an average daily drive, you wouldn’t be using all your battery power, so it could cost as little as $1 to recharge the next night. In total, that’s about $15 a fortnight. Remember, the actual amount will vary depending on the time of day you’re charging it, the amount of driving you do, and the type of driving, such as on hills or fast motorways.

Even though hybrids need to be filled with petrol, they are still very fuel-efficient because the electric engine shares the workload with the internal combustion engine. This means you spend less on fuel and you also have lower emissions into the bargain.

How far will my EV take me?

Another question about EVs is how far they can drive before running out of charge and what to do if this happens. Well, it’s like a petrol car – you simply find the nearest place to fill up or, in this case, charge up.

In terms of range, let’s look at a new Nissan Leaf. When fully charged, its range is approximately 247km, which is just over the distance from Auckland Central to Rotorua (227km). However, factors such as air conditioning or heavy luggage can drain the battery faster.

So, can you really save money with an EV? The upfront cost of an EV can be significantly higher than a petrol vehicle but, if you consider the long-term costs, such as fuel and maintenance, it can definitely be a lot easier on your wallet.

If you maintain and treat your car right, it will not only save you money on repairs and prolong its life, but it will also reduce your environmental footprint. Even an older car can be reliable with a little TLC.

You may be wondering what you need to pay attention to when it comes to extending the life of your vehicle? Here are six of the most important car hacks you should know.

1. Get repairs done as soon as possible

You should replace worn or broken parts immediately. If you don’t, it could create a knock-on effect that causes damage other parts of your vehicle. By replacing parts as soon as they wear out or break, it will prevent other parts from failing, thus extending the life of your car.

2. Don’t ignore the maintenance schedule

Regular maintenance includes things like topping up or replacing fluids, changing the oil, checking the brake pads, suspension, and steering, and replacing oil and air filters. To work out how often you should do these maintenance tasks, consult your vehicle handbook.

A good rule of thumb is to service your vehicle every twelve months or 10,000km, whichever comes first. If you’re a high mileage driver, or you have an older vehicle, aim to service it every six months or 5,000km. Keep records of any work you’ve had done and hold on to your receipts.

3. Don’t neglect your tyres

A few minutes spent once a month checking your tyre pressure can save you a headache down the road. Tyre pressure influences several important characteristics of vehicle performance such as driving comfort, directional stability, cornering, braking, and general handling. Sadly, many people don’t think about their tyres until they blow while you’re on the road!

Tyres naturally lose air pressure at a rate of about 1 to 2 psi (pounds per square inch) per month, so be sure to monitor them regularly to ensure optimal performance and your vehicle’s longevity. You should also check the tread depth of your tyres to make sure it’s at least 1.5mm and rotate your tyres regularly.

4. Watch out for the engine light

If your engine light comes on, don’t ignore it. If there’s nothing wrong with your car, it wouldn’t come on. The same goes for unusual noises or smells coming from your vehicle. If this happens, take your car to your mechanic, so they can investigate the cause. Even if money is tight, it’s important to remember that repairs done later are likely to be more expensive than repairs done now.

5. Get windscreen chips fixed quickly

Get the chips on your windscreen fixed sooner, rather than later. If left unattended, chips can turn into cracks and, ultimately, shatter your entire windscreen.

6. Simplicity is key

High-end cars tend to depreciate more quickly because the luxury gadgets and electronic gizmos they come with mean there’s more that can go wrong over time. An easy way to avoid this and extend the life of your vehicle is to buy a simpler car in the first place.

Also try to avoid adding extras after you buy your car, like an aftermarket suspension kit that lifts or lowers your vehicle. That’s because altering your suspension adds extra stress to the axles, CV joints, and other components because they’re operating outside the heights and angles they were designed for.

You should also be cautious about what aftermarket electrical components you add to your vehicle, such as stereos and LED headlights. While these upgrades are nice additions to your vehicle, they can add load to your electrical system and cause failures that may be difficult and costly to identify and fix.

We’re all familiar with the driving scenario where the fuel light comes on and there isn’t a petrol station for miles. Most often, we make it to the fuel stop in time, but should we even let our vehicle get this close to empty in the first place?

Experts suggest you should keep your tank at least a quarter full at all times. Doing this will help you avoid getting into a dangerous situation, like running out of gas on a busy road. But did you know that driving on a near-empty tank can also damage your car?

How long can you drive on empty?

When your petrol tank is running close to empty, this will trigger the familiar warning light to let you know it’s time to fill up. Ideally, don’t let your car get to this point but, if you do, try and get to a petrol station as soon as possible.

How many kilometres you have left before completely running out of fuel depends on your vehicle and your driving style. To find out the reserve distance for your car, look in your owner’s manual.

Many modern cars have an electronic display showing how many kilometres you can drive before running out completely. Remember though that this number is an estimate, so it’s not 100% accurate. Activities like sitting in traffic, driving at high speeds, or driving up steep hills can all affect the actual number.

What damage does driving on empty do to my vehicle?

The fuel tank of your vehicle holds petrol or diesel and feeds it to your engine through the fuel lines. This is clearly a vital part of your vehicle’s overall fuel system. Letting your fuel level fall to reserve regularly could cause issues with your fuel pump. In modern vehicles, the fuel pump is located within the engine, where the fuel helps keep it cool and lubricated.

Most fuel pumps last as long as your vehicle does but, when the fuel level falls very low, it’s possible for your fuel pump to start taking in air, which generates more heat. This overheating can cause your fuel pump to wear out faster than normal or – worst case scenario – can cause it to fail completely.

This will likely feel like your engine has had a loss of power, or there’s hesitation, or vibration. Replacing your fuel pump is a labour-intensive job, which can cost a lot of money.

Your fuel filter can also be affected if your tank sits on empty regularly. As its name suggests, the fuel filter filters the fuel before it gets to the engine. It’s located between the engine and the fuel pump and it helps catch any particles before they get to your fuel pump.

When you run low on gas, the likelihood of sediments getting drawn into your fuel pump increases. This can clog the fuel filter, which will slow down the flow of petrol to your engine.

What to do if your car runs out of petrol

Pull over. You should turn on your hazard lights and pull to the side of the road or an even safer location, if possible. If you know you won’t make it to a petrol station, look for somewhere safe to stop before you completely run out of gas.

Call for help. You should call a friend, family member, or emergency roadside service provider for help. If this isn’t an option, try calling a tow company, or the traffic non-emergency number *555. This number is to report road incidents which are urgent but not life-threatening like non-injury crashes, traffic congestion, breakdowns, and obstructions on the highway.

Enjoy peace of mind

While standard vehicle insurance might cover theft and damage from accidents, Autolife’s Mechanical Repair Insurance covers breakdowns, mechanical faults and repairs, and extra services, such as 24-hour Roadside Assistance and towing. The cover applies to new and used vehicles and provides peace of mind that you’re covered for unexpected mechanical needs.

Contact us today to see how our Mechanical Repair Insurance can help you.

Picture this: you’re just about to leave for work. You hop into your car and you’re looking forward to listening to your favourite song during your commute. But your car won’t start when you turn your key over because you’ve got a dead battery. Sound familiar? That’s because a dead battery is one of the most common occurrences experienced by motorists.

While it may be frustrating to discover your car has a dead battery, there are some simple things you can do to care for it and extend its life.

What causes a dead battery?

It’s important to know what affects your battery and causes it to lose its charge. Common causes include leaving your headlights or interior lights on, corrosion, charging system failure, or not running your car for a long period. Short trips can also reduce your car battery’s lifespan, as you’re not driving often or long enough to charge the battery.

Newer cars are controlled by computers that are powered by your car battery. So, if your car isn’t locked using the remote, the computer will remain on standby and continue consuming power, which can drain the battery. Hybrid and electric vehicles also use a 12V battery to power lights, door locks, and the radio, so they’re just as vulnerable to a dead battery.

Several factors determine how long your battery will last, including the weather conditions, your vehicle type, and how you use it. The best way to keep on top of your battery’s condition is to regularly test the battery voltage.

6 ways to extend your car’s battery life

1. Check all the lights are off before exiting your vehicle.
2. During colder months, keep your car in a covered space or a garage.
3. If your vehicle is not going to be used for a long period, remove the negative battery connection. Remember of course to reconnect the terminal before starting the vehicle!
4. Schedule a long drive once a month if you’re only using your car for short trips – this will help charge the battery.
5. Clean your battery regularly using a sponge or dry cloth to remove grime, dirt, or dampness, which can cause leakage across the battery casing and flatten the battery.
6. Consider getting a battery charger if you don’t use your car regularly, so you can charge the battery at home. Make sure to choose a charger specific to your car battery’s needs. It’s also advisable to charge batteries in a well-ventilated area as they can give off poisonous gases.

How to tell if you need a new battery

Batteries should last four to five years. The main sign you need to replace your car battery is when it’s slow, sluggish, or needs a few turns of the motor to start. Another sign to look out for is excess corrosion around the battery terminal. If you’re not sure when it was last replaced, get a mechanic to check the health of your battery. They can advise on when it should be replaced.

Disposing of your car battery

It’s illegal to throw out your car battery with household waste because it contains lead and acid. Get in touch with your local garage, parts retailer, or recycling centre, as they may take it off your hands – sometimes for a small fee. If the battery is still in reasonable condition, it can be reconditioned for further use, or the components can be repurposed for other uses.

Most of us rely on our cars and would ideally like them to keep running for as long as possible, with little to no effort. The reality is that keeping a car running smoothly takes time, effort, and money. The good news is that keeping your car in top condition isn’t a hard job. The investment you make today will save you money down the road.

Here are eight top tips on how to keep your car performing well and running cleanly.

1. Plan your trips to avoid cold starts

Short trips down to the shops and back can be harmful to your car’s engine. Called ‘cold starts’, these journeys are too short for your car’s engine to warm up to its optimum temperature, so it uses more fuel, produces more emissions, and causes more wear and tear. If possible, plan your trips so you complete all your errands in one longer trip rather than in multiple shorter trips.

2. Get your car serviced regularly

Your car should be serviced regularly to ensure it runs efficiently and effectively. A good rule of thumb is to get it serviced every 12 months or 10,000 km, but check your car’s manual for the ideal service recommendations. During a service, oil and filters are changed, fluids are checked and topped up, and repairs are done, if needed. Spending a smaller, regular amount to service your car and keep it at peak performance is preferable to a big, unexpected bill in the future.

3. Clean and wax your vehicle regularly

While most people wash their car so it looks good, there are some good practical reasons why you should keep up a regular cleaning regime. Our roads are full of dirt, grime, and chemicals, so washing your vehicle is important to remove build-up and preserve your car’s bodywork.

4. Do a weekly check up

When last did you do a walk around of your car, checking tyre pressure, lights, turning signals, and engine belts? These are essential vehicle components, so it pays to check these regularly – ideally every week. This simple habit can help you avoid breakdowns that could lead to more serious problems.

5. Listen to your car

Listening carefully for unfamiliar noises your car makes is your first line of defence in preventing major damage. Next time you’re in your car, turn the music off and simply listen to what your car sounds like when you turn it on, when you step on the accelerator, when you brake, and when you take a corner. This will give you a baseline of what your car sounds like, so you are more likely to pick up any unusual noises that may indicate something’s wrong.

6. Avoid extra weight

Any unnecessary weight you’re carrying in your car means it has to work harder to transport it around. This adds additional strain to the engine, suspension, transmission, and brakes. Clean out the clutter and just keep the essentials in your car.

7. Do repairs right away

While we all try and avoid paying for vehicle repairs, putting them off can be a danger to you, your passengers, and your vehicle. For peace of mind, consider mechanical repair insurance, which can save you thousands on auto repairs.

8. Avoid buying cheap to save a few dollars

When it comes to keeping your car performing well, you should aim to buy the best products that you can afford. Examples include making small upgrades such as purchasing a better brand of oil filter or buying a higher quality oil. You should also make sure the products you buy are suited for your vehicle’s year, make, and model.

Kiwi summers are always something to look forward to, with our ever-popular barbecues, beaches, and unspoilt great outdoors. However, we need to be just as wary about the effects of the heat and the sun’s harsh UV rays on our cars as on our skin.

UV rays can oxidise and cause our car’s paint to fade, making it appear older. The rays can also penetrate through window glass and fade the dashboard and seats. Plastics and rubbers can also become misshapen, faded, and brittle over time with prolonged exposure to the sun.

Don’t worry unnecessarily though – here are five tips to protect your car from harmful rays and keep it in top condition for longer.

1. Find a shady spot to park your car

The best place to park your car is in the shade. Due to our thinner ozone layer and cleaner air, New Zealand has some of the harshest sun’s rays in the world. That’s why it’s so important to keep your vehicle out of the sun as much as possible. Leaving your vehicle in direct sunlight for extended periods can crack and fade its exterior and dashboard.

Keeping your car cool in the shade will also make your car’s interior temperature more bearable when you get into it. If you must park in direct sun, open your car windows a crack – this will help lower the interior temperature and equalise the air pressure. If you can’t park your car in a shaded area, use a windshield sun protector instead.

2. Slap on the car sunscreen

Car wax is the equivalent of your car’s sunscreen. It adds a protective barrier to the paint, while most brands also provide a great shine too. Your car wax bottle won’t have an SPF number on it, but the protection factor is similar across all brands.

However, it’s important to remember that paint protection doesn’t last forever, and the damaging UV rays will penetrate through the barrier after a while. Two or three coats applied to your car across the summer months is a cheaper investment than having to pay for repairs after the sun has damaged your car’s bodywork.

PS. If you’re putting sunscreen on yourself, make sure your hands are clean of all product before touching your car, as human sunscreen can damage the paintwork!

3. Wash your car more often in summer

You should also wash your car more often in summer using automotive wash, rather than washing liquid. UV rays and heat can fade and crack your car’s paint over time, so washing it more frequently helps remove dirt and dust particles that can cause micro scratches and dull your car’s paint finish.

4. Check your car’s tyre pressure

Driving with underinflated tyres on hot roads is a dangerous combination that could lead to a blowout. At the very least, it will shorten the lifespan of your car tyres. Make sure you check your car’s tyre pressure more often in summer to minimise the risk of this happening.

5. Look after your car’s interior

If you can’t park your car in a shaded area, use a windshield sun protector. It will keep your car cool and prevent the sun from damaging your dashboard. When cleaning your car, use a microfibre cloth to wipe your dash to remove all particles, including dust.

If you have leather or fabric seats, consider installing seat covers to protect them. Take extra care with leather seats, in particular, as they can crack or tear. Keep them clean and apply a leather conditioner regularly.

What to do if your car is already sunburned

If your car already has sun damage, there are some options you can try. If the damage is still in the early stages, use a clay bar to clean the outermost layer of your vehicle. You can buy these from most automotive part suppliers, and they can be used on most vehicle surfaces, including glass and mirrors.

Clay bars are made of a special resin that pulls contaminants from your car’s outer coating and prepares your paintwork for polishing. Car detailing professionals use a clay bar when they fix paintwork or apply a new layer of wax to a car’s bodywork.

If this doesn’t work, buy a rubbing compound from your car parts supplier. This does a light cut and polish, then buffs the paintwork. Use a small amount of compound and apply it to a small area at a time. Follow this with a buffing by hand, then apply wax and buff again.

Extreme cases of sun damage will require sanding off of the damaged coat of paint, followed by prep work and respraying with a new undercoat and a clear top coat. It’s best to leave this to the professionals, unless you have previous experience.

Windscreen wipers are critical for maintaining a clear view through your windscreen, which is of course essential for safe driving. We rely on our windscreen wipers to remove dirt and water but, if you fail to replace your wipers when required, you could be creating an unnecessary driving hazard.

Dirty windscreen wipers can smear dirt and grime across your windscreen, which will reduce visibility. And, if grit is trapped under the wiper blades, it can scratch your windscreen.

Wipers are also exposed to harsh weather conditions, such as extreme heat in the peak of summer or freezing temperatures in the depths of the New Zealand winter, so they are subjected to wear and tear without you even realising it. Because of this, they should be cleaned and replaced regularly.

Here are some tips on how to clean and maintain your car’s windscreen wipers and when to replace them.

1. Wiper checks

The first thing to check is the overall condition of your windscreen wipers. A good way to test if they’re working properly is to turn them on and see if they’re wiping away dirt and water, leaving you with clear vision.

If your wipers are leaving streak marks, stripes or blurry patches that’s because they’re not connecting properly with the windscreen. The first step to fix this is to wipe them clean and, if this doesn’t work, you’ll need to replace the wiper rubbers. You can buy replacements from your local motor parts store and they’re generally quite easy to replace yourself.

If your wiper blades are cleaning fine but your wipers are moving erratically, or you hear noises, these are signs you may have issues with your wiper motor. If so, get it checked by a professional so they can resolve the problem for you as soon as possible.

When you stop at the service station to fuel up is a good time to check the water levels in your windscreen reservoir so you can squirt clean water onto your windscreen if necessary. It’s also a good idea to buy special windscreen washer fluid from your local car parts store to add to the water so it cleans your windscreen better.

It’s also a good idea to check your windscreen glass from time to time, as cracked or chipped glass can cause distractions in your field of vision. Damage, like a small crack, might seem minor at first but bear in mind that a tiny crack can spread quickly – particularly if you’re driving on bumpy roads.

2. Clean your wipers

You should clean your windscreen wipers regularly because the dirt that dries on them can damage your windscreen. To do a good job, you’ll need a paper towel or clean rags, washer fluid or hot soapy water, and rubbing alcohol.

First, lift your windscreen wipers from the glass to make it easier to access the blades. Then, apply a small amount of washer liquid or hot soapy water to your paper towel or rag, then wipe the blades from one end to the other several times until no more dirt comes off the rubber edge. Remove any remaining residue on the rubber using rubbing alcohol.

Finally, remove any debris from the wiper hinges and wash them out.

3. When to replace your wipers

Replace your windscreen wipers when they’re affecting your visibility of the road ahead. A good rule of thumb is to replace them every 6-12 months, although this varies depending on the weather conditions your car is subjected to. At the most, you can extend their life until you get your annual warrant of fitness (WOF).

However, if you have a crack or a chip on your windscreen, be sure to have it fixed or replaced immediately.

As more and more New Zealanders get out of their cars and onto their bikes, it’s important to know the rules on how to safely share the road with them. A bicycle is considered a vehicle, just like a car, and cyclists have equal rights and responsibilities when sharing the road with motorists. However, cyclists are more vulnerable, as they are less visible and have less protection.

Drivers may find it confusing or challenging sharing the road with cyclists, so here are some tips on how to reduce the stress and become a more aware and courteous driver.

Be careful when turning

Be sure to check your mirrors and blind spots before turning, especially if you’re driving a larger vehicle. Indicate clearly and with plenty of advance warning, so cyclists are aware of your intentions. If a cyclist is turning in the same direction, let them pass first, then turn behind them.

Understand cyclists’ hand signals

Cyclists use their hands to communicate their next move, like how drivers use their indicators. They use these signals to let other road users know when they’re changing lanes or turning. If you see someone holding their left or right arm up at a 90-degree angle to their body, this signals the direction they’re turning in.

Pass slowly and with caution

Take care when passing people on bicycles. Slow down and try to leave a gap of at least 1.5m. Be aware they may need to move unexpectedly and not have time to signal. Cyclists are susceptible to hazards like potholes, glass, litter or parked vehicles, so having a reasonable distance between you and them will give you room to safely swerve if necessary.

If you come across a group of cyclists, be sure to give them plenty of room if you’re planning on overtaking and wait for a clear space before passing on a narrow road.

Watch your door

Always check your mirrors and over your shoulder before opening your car door, as you can injure cyclists if they’re riding past.

Be careful when reversing or entering a driveway

If you’re entering or exiting a driveway, make sure you look both ways and give way to cyclists, especially if you’re entering a two-way cycleway.

Don’t park on a cycle lane

You cannot stop or park on a cycleway. You may only drive in a cycle lane for up to 50 metres if you are turning into or out of an intersection with a minor road, driveway, or parking space.

Watch out for children

Children on bicycles are smaller and much harder to spot on the road, especially if you’re driving a larger vehicle. They’re also less aware of their surroundings and less experienced when judging if it is safe to cross a road. Remain alert, always give them the right of way, and wait for them to cross safely.

Tips for cyclists

If you’re a driver planning to get onto your bike more, here are some useful tips to help you share the road safely and courteously with motorists.

• Observe traffic regulations. Pay attention to red lights and use your arms to signal which direction you’re turning.
• Keep to your lane (if there is a cycle lane). Cycle lanes are usually on the far left side of a road. Try and stay in your lane unless there’s a hazard that requires you to move into the vehicle lane. If you’re cycling in a group, try and travel in single file, so cars have enough room to pass safely.
• Wear a helmet. It’s a legal requirement to wear a helmet when cycling and it’s an essential part of safety equipment – much like seatbelts for drivers. If possible, wear brightly coloured or reflective clothing to make yourself visible to drivers.

Electric vehicles (EVs) are great for the environment but currently not so great for our pockets. While their maintenance is affordable and charging them is cheaper than refuelling with petrol, the sticker price of an EV is keeping some shoppers away – even with the current New Zealand government clean car discount.

The big question is: why do they cost more than their petrol counterparts? And when will they cost the same, or perhaps even less?

The answer to this rides on one key factor: the cost of batteries, which represents the largest single component cost of an EV. Other factors influencing the cost, such as the electrical systems and wiring, can be cheaper in an EV, while the heating and ventilation system can be more expensive because of the lack of heat from the engine. These and other factors all contribute to the cost per kilowatt-hour (kWh) of the batteries.

A recent study conducted by BloombergNEF (BNEF) found that battery prices need to drop below US$100/kWh before EV costs reach parity with normal internal combustion engine (ICE) vehicles. The good news is the average global price for batteries across all EV segments hit a new low of US$137/kWh in 2020.

This is an 89% drop from 2010 when the price was US$1,100/kWh. BNEF expects battery prices to reach US$80/kWh in 2026 and US$60/kWh in 2029.

The increased supply of and demand for EVs should also help lower prices, as they become more mainstream, as will cheaper and better batteries. It’s also expected that tighter emissions regulations around the world will make traditional internal combustion vehicles more expensive. These regulations could see EVs dominate the new car sales charts by the mid-2030s.

While the numbers are looking good from a global perspective, the transition from ICE to EV has been slow in New Zealand. In September this year nearly 9% of new registrations were for EVs, but this dropped back to just 4% in October. These figures compare poorly with Norway (87%) and the UK (23%), which boast very attractive ‘feebate’ schemes that subsidise the costs of switching to electric vehicles.

New Zealand’s ‘feebate’ clean car discount, which runs from 1 July 2021 through to 31 March 2022, has boosted Kiwis’ uptake of EVs. It is available for all new and light used electric vehicles (including PHEVs) under $80,000 (including GST and on-road costs) imported and registered in New Zealand from 1 July.

The move to electric here is being helped by the fact that high-end luxury manufacturers are now offering similar prices for their electric and ICE vehicles. Examples include the Porsche Taycan, Mercedes-Benz EQC and EQA, and the BMW i4.

However, this price parity is not being seen in cheaper EVs. While the clean car discount helps reduce the price gap in cheaper EVs, there is still a big difference in cost. For example, New Zealand’s cheapest new EV, the MG ZS EV, drops to just over $40,000 with the discount, while its closest ICE equivalent, the MG ZST Essence, costs significantly less at $33,990.

But with the price of batteries dropping at an accelerating rate we will soon start seeing EVs filtering into the used-car market, which is where we should see a widespread EV uptake over the next few years.

When parking your car in a public space, prevention is better than cure. It’s best to park in a marked parking facility, or a clear parking spot, than risk parking somewhere you’re not legally permitted to.

Getting a parking ticket or having your car clamped or towed can definitely dampen your day. However, sometimes a ticket is unavoidable, for example if you’ve paid for parking but returned to your car after the expired time due to any number of unexpected reasons.

If you do get a parking ticket, or your vehicle is clamped or towed away, it’s important to know what your rights are. Here is some information on how to prevent this from happening and what to do if you find yourself in this situation.

Paid parking

When parking in a marked paid parking space look out for signs that tell you how long you can park for and the fee you need to pay, as well as any other terms or conditions. By parking, you’re agreeing to the terms listed on the signs.

Here are some tips on preventing your car from being ticketed, towed or clamped:
• Choose your parking spot carefully
• Read the signs near the parking space or at the point of payment
• Follow the conditions listed on the signs; these include paying attention to time limits, fees and what will happen if you break these conditions
• Remember that if you park on private land, even if there are no signs, your car may be towed and clamped, and you’ll need to pay.

Parking on public roads

Public roads include beaches, ferries and places the public has access to. These are regulated by the Land Transport Act 1998 and local bylaws. On public roads, the Police and parking wardens can:
• Issue tickets for parking offences regulated under the transport regulation
• Prohibit or restrict parking on any road as long as signs are displayed
• Have a vehicle towed if they believe its location on the road causes obstruction or if towing is in the interest of road safety or the public interest; for example, if you’ve parked on yellow lines or a pedestrian crossing.

Most local councils have further information on their website on local parking offences and policies, including fees.

If your vehicle has been clamped or towed

If you see your vehicle being clamped or about to be towed away, ask the person doing it if they have the authority to do so. Only an agent of the landowner or business can lawfully have the vehicle clamped or towed.

Once you’ve established they have the authority to do so, you may have the option to pay on the spot to have your vehicle released. It is possible to recover some of your money later. You could also negotiate a reduced fee or pay part of the release fee and receive an invoice for the outstanding amount.

If you do make a payment, be sure to ask for a receipt. You can only be charged up to $100 if your vehicle has been clamped. If the clamper refuses to release your car, or if they insist on charging more than the maximum amount, you can contact the Police.

Also be sure to take photos or take note of any unclear or obscure signs or boundary lines that may have faded and are no longer clearly visible. Ask for the contact details of the agent responsible for clamping or towing your vehicle.

Don’t try and remove the clamp yourself as it may cause unnecessary damage and the clamper may seek the cost of the damages.

You have the right to seek a part or full refund, or in some cases, compensation, if:
• You were misled by the sign
• The ticketing, clamping or towing was unjustified or unauthorised
• The enforcement fees are unreasonable.

If you receive a parking ticket

You will generally need to pay the penalty if the reason for issuing it is justified. If the ticket was unauthorised or unjustified, or if the fee is unreasonable, you can make a complaint to the landowner, tenant or parking enforcement firm.

If you are going to challenge the ticket, take pictures or make notes of any unclear or obscure signs.

Steps you can take to appeal a ticket, clamping or towing are:
• Contact the landowner, tenant or parking enforcement business
• Negotiate for a reduced fee or partial refund if you think the fee paid was unreasonable
• Request a refund of any infringement fee if you use a parking facility but there were no clear signs about towing or clamping.

If agreement can’t be reached, you can make a claim to the Disputes Tribunal or report the company to the Commerce Commission.

You can get support and advice from:
● Citizens Advice Bureau (CAB)
● Community Law Centre

There are plenty of reasons to make the switch to an electric vehicle (EV). They emit less CO2 than their petrol equivalent, their battery emits 60% fewer climate-changing emissions over their full life cycle than a petrol vehicle, and they’re cheap and quiet to run.

While the benefits sound great, there are some considerations around accessories and what you might need to get the best out of your ownership experience. The biggest shift is the move from petrol to volts; it’s much slower to charge a car electrically than simply taking it to a petrol station to fill up.

To help you with this transition, here is a quick guide on what you can expect as an EV owner and what you will need to make owning an EV a breeze.

Charging your EV

Every new EV comes with a charger that plugs into a standard three-pin home power outlet. This supplies power at a maximum of 10 amps, or around 2kWh. This means charging a current-generation Nissan Leaf with a 60kWh battery from zero to full can take up to 30 hours.

The best way to manage these long charging times is to keep your EV topped up as you go. If you’re heading somewhere with a public charger, plug it in so you can get some extra charge into your car.

While the number of charging ports available across the country is slowly growing, having a charging port at home is still the most convenient way to charge your vehicle. So, the best thing you can do as an EV owner is get a wall box installed at your home.

You will need an electrician to install it; the cost for the box ranges from $1,000 to $3,000 plus installation charges. Some distributors will bundle a wall box with the sale of an EV, so be sure to shop around and ask the dealer you’re buying your EV from.

Something to consider with home charging is how it will affect your electricity bill. However, it’s important to highlight that charging an EV is still cheaper than filling up a tank of petrol. According to Drive Electric, if you drive an average of 25-30km a day, the cost of charging an EV is equivalent to paying 30 cents per litre of petrol. You can charge your EV overnight for $3.00 per 100km, depending on the model.

Cable

EV cables are handy to have on hand, much like jumper cables that you’d use for a flat 12V battery. Some public charging units don’t come with cables, so you’ll need to supply your own.

Portable charger

These are handy to have, especially if you find yourself stranded in an area without a charging station nearby. New cars tend to come with portable chargers as standard but used or imported EVs may not have them. Treat a portable charger like you would a spare tyre and keep a fully charged one in your car at all times.

Adaptors

There are different plugs for EVs, so it’s important to carry an adaptor in case you run into a mismatch with plugs. This is especially important if you have an older EV car designed for Type 1 sockets and you’re likely to come across a newer Type 2 socket.

While the internet has made it easier than ever to find and buy cars, you probably still wouldn’t choose to buy a pre-loved car sight unseen – no matter how good a deal you may be getting.

Rather, you want to see the vehicle in person and take it for a drive, so you can get first-hand experience of what it’s like and whether it meets your needs. It may even pay to call in a professional, who can give you advice on whether the car will last the distance. It may cost a little extra upfront, but it could save you a lot further down the track.

Below are some of the checks and inspections you may want to consider next time you’re looking to buy a pre-loved car.

Inspect the vehicle

One of the first things to do when considering buying a car is to go and have a look at it. NZTA recommends doing this on a sunny day, and make sure the car is parked outside. This will make it easier to notice if there is any damage to the vehicle and give you a better idea of its general condition.

Also, do some basic checks like: are the doors easy to open, what does the interior of the car look and smell like, and are the tyres in good condition?

And, don’t be afraid to pop the hood and have a look at the engine bay. Even if you don’t know much about cars, if this area is particularly dirty, this could be a sign that the current owner hasn’t paid much attention to the working parts.

Take it for a test drive

Once you’ve had a look at the car, it’s time to take it for a drive, as you want to get a feel for how it handles. Consumer Protection suggest starting the car cold, if possible. Ask the seller to not run it for an hour or two before you visit, so you can get a better idea of how it would start first thing in the morning and how it handles before the engine has had time to warm up.

When test driving it’s ideal to do this on the road conditions you’ll normally encounter. If you’re a city driver, for example, find out how it handles being stuck in traffic and having to stop at multiple red lights. And also, whether it’s got enough pep to merge safely onto the motorway. If you’re more likely to drive in the country, take it out on some winding roads.

While it may be tempting to test the sound system and blast your favourite tunes while taking the vehicle for a drive, it’s recommended to turn the volume down and listen instead for any noises the car may be making, for example, rattling, clunking, or anything that seems out of the ordinary.

Ask questions

It’s important to ask the seller questions about the vehicle, such as any problems they may have had with the car, or repairs that have been done. Also ask to see repair, service and maintenance records or receipts. This will give you an idea of how they’ve looked after the car during the time they’ve had it and give an insight into its general wear and tear.

This is also a good time to check the vehicle’s WOF and registration. Generally, cars need to have a WOF less than a month old to be sold in New Zealand, although you can make alternative arrangements with the seller.

Get a professional opinion

If you’ve reached the point where you’re happy with the car and are considering putting in an offer, this is a good time to consider getting in a professional third party inspector to give the car a pre-purchase inspection.

They may uncover something you’ve missed and give you advice on whether the car will stand the test of time. They’ll also be able to identify any repairs that may be needed in the near future and if there are any issues that may stop you from getting a WOF, as well as other small but important details you may have missed.

A pre-inspection check is especially important if you’re buying from a private seller (like through TradeMe or Facebook Marketplace), as there are fewer consumer protections than if you were buying from a dealership.

Buying a new car is and should be exciting. But it’s essential to do your due diligence, so you’re not left with a lemon a few months down the track.

It’s a known fact that the new car smell we all love doesn’t last. If you buy a second-hand car, it’s unlikely to come with the new car smell and its scent depends on how the previous owner treated the interior. While you may try your best to keep the car pristinely clean, bad odours can still linger and create an unpleasant environment.

One obvious solution is to open the windows and vents to let some air in. However, if the car has been closed up for a long time, a blast of awful-smelling air can come into your car, making the odour even worse.

So, what’s the solution? Here are some tips on how to eliminate nasty odours and get your car smelling fresh and clean again.

Find the source of the bad odour

Look in seat pockets, under the seat, under and on the floor mats, and even in the glove compartment for the source of the smell. You’ll also want to pay attention to the centre console, the sides of the front seats and any cubby holes to cover all possible options. Once you’ve located the source, get rid of it and open the car doors to let the lingering odour out.

In extreme cases, you may need to remove the seats to get to the source of the smell. If this is the case, seek professional help, especially if your vehicle has airbags or sensors fitted.

Clean the carpet and upholstery

Sometimes odours are ingrained into the vehicle’s carpet or upholstery. If so, it’s time to get into deep clean mode and give the interior a good cleaning. Get your vacuum cleaner out and vacuum thoroughly, including into crevices using the upholstery attachment. If this doesn’t do the trick, try steam cleaning, if you own a steam cleaner.

Use cleaners and deodorisers on the seats and trim to help flush out the ingrained smells and neutralise foul-smelling odours. Be sure to wash the floor mats, as these absorb a lot of dirt and odorous debris over time. Just make sure they’ve dried completely before putting them back.

Removing cigarette smell

If you’re a smoker, or have a passenger who is, remember to empty the ashtray regularly. Cigarette smoke gets everywhere, including into the air vents. To neutralise this, spray a car odour eliminator into the vents as well as through the air intake valve under the hood. Be sure to keep the doors and windows open to air out the bad smells.

Cigarette smoke also leaves behind tar, an unpleasant, sticky substance. To remove it, wipe down the interior panels using a solution of water and vinegar. You could also use dishwashing soap if the odour lingers. Dry the surfaces after you’ve cleaned them.

Getting rid of mildew and mould

If it’s been raining and you’ve left your window slightly open, water can make its way into your car and leave wet patches on your upholstery or carpet. This can lead to mildew or mould and cause an unpleasant smell in your car. The good news is that getting rid of wet patches and mildewy or mouldy smells in a car is easy, using a wet/dry vacuum or even a hairdryer.

If mould has started growing on your car’s upholstery or carpet due to damp, use a water and vinegar solution to wipe it down, then leave the car doors and windows open to air it out. Check under the mats and in the car boot for any condensation, including the area where your spare tyre is stored.

Keeping your car smelling clean

To keep your car smelling fresh and clean, be sure to air it out regularly. Air fresheners are also a good option but bear in mind that if there’s a persistent smell in the air, it will only temporarily mask and not permanently remove it.

If it’s raining heavily or flooding, the roads will be dangerous to drive on. You need to take extra care so that you and everyone else on the road get to their destination safely.

Before you go on your journey, ask yourself if you really need to go out in the bad weather. Is it essential? Can it be delayed until after the bad weather subsides?

If you need to go out in the rain, or if you’re caught in the bad weather or flood, here are some things you can do to prepare and stay safe on the road.

Check your vehicle

You should check your vehicle regularly to ensure it remains in good condition. Make sure your windscreen wipers are working and that your tyres are at the legal tread depth, so your car will have a good amount of grip on the road.

Fill your car up with fuel before going out, in case you need to travel further than anticipated due to road closures, floods, or slips. Good visibility is important too, so make sure your windows are clean and not fogged up, so you can see all angles. If your windows are fogging up, turn on the demister or open your windows.

Stay updated and connected

Make sure to follow the advice of Civil Defence and emergency services and check for road closures before you drive off. Keep your phone with you in case you get stuck and need to call for help.

Adjust your driving

Wet roads can be very slippery. It’s important to adjust your driving to suit the conditions. Avoid tailgating cars by increasing your following distance from four seconds to six seconds so you can react to any dangers.

Look ahead to try and spot big puddles, especially if you’re driving over 70km/h. You also want to reduce your overall speed, as you can lose control very easily in wet weather conditions, especially if you have to brake suddenly.

If you’re driving through deep water, try not to exceed 5km/hour as you will end up overtaking the bow wave generated at the front of the vehicle.

Turn your headlights on

When driving in wet weather, you need to see and be seen. Make sure you have your headlights on as rain reduces visibility on the road. This makes it easier for you to see other cars and it will help others see you too.

What to do in heavy floods

If you find yourself caught in a flood, you need to be extra careful when driving. If you drive too fast, the bow wave caused by your vehicle could drench other road users, and the water could find its way into your vehicle’s engine bay.

This is dangerous, as the pistons in your engine won’t be able to compress the water and will cause what’s known as hydrolock and engine failure. Avoid crossing fast-flowing flood water, especially if you don’t know its depth.

If you’re stuck in a queue of cars, it’s best for each car to pass through the waters one by one. This will give you and other drivers a good idea of whether it’s safe to cross the flooded area or not. Also, if more than one car passes through and it’s not safe to cross, emergency services will need to rescue the occupants of more than one car in the flooded area.

Once you’ve safely crossed the flooded area test your brakes. This will help remove water so they’re back to normal operation when you need them.

If your vehicle has been caught in floodwaters, it’s recommended that you don’t drive it. You also shouldn’t attempt to start your vehicle, as water could be inside the engine and electrical systems. Wait for the car to dry out or contact your roadside assistance or local service station for advice before you attempt and drive it.

Also Read:

• Safe driving on New Zealand’s dangerous roads

• How to charge an EV faster

If you pop the bonnet of your car you will be presented by a nest of engine components. Many of us don’t have the faintest idea what a number of them do. But no matter how little you know about cars, there are a few key things that live under the bonnet that you should become familiar with.

This means, for example, that if a warning light flashes up on your dash, you know what you need to do. And, even if a warning light isn’t on, it’s a good idea to keep an eye on these important components and make sure they’re taken care of.

1. Engine oil

Engine oil keeps all the moving parts in your engine going smoothly and extends the life of the engine. The oil reduces friction between the moving parts, which prevents erosion, makes sure the engine doesn’t overheat, and helps keep the engine clean by washing away debris.

Checking the oil level is quite straight forward. Under the hood, you’ll find a dipstick that shows you the level of oil left in the tank. You might need to check your vehicle handbook to locate it.

Simply remove the dipstick, wipe it clean with a paper towel, then put it back in before removing it once more and seeing how far up the stick the oil comes. The stick will be marked with lower and upper levels, so it’s easy to see if you need a top-up, or if you can continue driving safely.

It is also important to make sure you’re using the right oil. If you’re unsure, check your car’s manual or ask your mechanic.

2. Coolant

Coolant is another important fluid for your car. Also known as antifreeze, its main role is to prevent your radiator from freezing in cold temperatures and overheating when it’s hot.

To find it, look for a clear plastic bottle towards the front of the engine bay. It will have marks on the outside so it’s easy to see how much liquid is left.

3. Brake fluid

Modern brakes work on a hydraulic system, which needs special liquid to work. When you press the brake it’s the fluid that puts pressure on the pads, which helps your car stop. So, if there’s no fluid, there’s no pressure.

You’ll find the reservoir for brake fluid towards the back of the engine bay. It will usually be marked, so it’s easy enough to locate and check the levels. Simply unscrew the cap to top it up with brake fluid.

4. Transmission fluid

Transmission fluid is what keeps your car’s gearbox operating smoothly and every car needs it to run well. However, you won’t be able to check the transmission fluid level in every car.

You’ll usually find a dipstick In older cars, similar to the engine oil dipstick, that lets you check your car’s transmission fluid levels. However, modern cars don’t have this so, if you can’t find yours, don’t worry. Refer to your car’s manual, which will tell you if you have a closed transmission fluid system, or if it’s something you’ll need to keep an eye on using the transmission fluid dipstick.

5. Windscreen washing liquid

While the other four liquids are required to keep your car in good mechanical running order, windscreen washer liquid is more of a safety consideration. Without it, keeping your windscreen clean and your line of vision clear becomes more difficult, which makes driving more dangerous.

This reservoir will be clear and have a bright lid – often with a spraying water image on the top. You can top this up with plain water, but you may like to use windscreen washing liquid as it’s much more effective at washing away the grime.

Knowing these basics of what’s under your bonnet can help you take care of your car better. And, even if you don’t top up your own engine oil or brake fluid, knowing that they’re running low and that you should get them topped up can help prevent future car troubles. So, if you haven’t yet, pop the hood on your car and have a look at what’s hiding underneath!

Modern cars are loaded with complex technology to help keep drivers safe on the road. Every new vehicle that gets released will likely be equipped with increasingly better technology than previous models. However, it can be difficult keeping up with all the new technologies.

Automatic lane monitoring and assistance systems help drivers become more aware of their surroundings and the position of their vehicle. The most common lane monitoring systems are Lane Keep Assist (LKA), Lane Departure Warning (LDW) and, more recently, Lane Centering Assistance (LCA).

These systems help keep a vehicle straight while on the road and they issue warnings if they veer off centre. While this may seem like an unnecessary addition to your car, it can be help prevent collisions caused by driver distraction. A slight turn of the steering wheel, for example, can put the driver and other vehicles on the road in danger.

Here’s a guide on automatic lane monitoring and assistance systems to help you understand more about these features and how they keep us safe on the road.

How do they work?

Lane-keeping and lane departure systems work by using forward-facing cameras to monitor the lane lines around a vehicle. They provide a visual, audible and/or tactile warning – such as seat or steering wheel vibrations – to warn the driver if the vehicle approaches or crosses lane markings.

If the vehicle has LKA, the automatic steering or braking will try to correct the vehicle if it starts to veer from the lane. Some systems allow the driver to set the strength level of the assistance required. The system doesn’t activate when the driver uses their turn signal.

Lane-centring assistance is currently the highest level of lane monitoring technology available. It proactively keeps vehicles centred within the lane it’s driving on. Using automatic steering functionality, this feature constantly makes adjustments to the steering based on road marking information fed through from the vehicle’s front-mounted camera.

This feature is sophisticated enough to even allow some vehicles to offer a hands-free driving experience. This means drivers can take their hands off the steering wheel but only on certain approved roads in some overseas countries. The driver still needs to pay attention to the road and be ready to take full control at any time.

LCA relies on painted lane markings to operate, including markings between lanes and along the edges of the road. Some versions of this feature may also help prevent a driver from accidentally leaving the road.

If the road is covered in snow, fog or debris, LCA may not be able to detect the lane markings on the road. Therefore, it’s important that the driver takes extra precautions and doesn’t simply rely on the LCA to drive safely.

While these systems are in place to help the driver be more wary of their surroundings and what is happening on the road, it doesn’t replace driver responsibility. The driver must remain in control of their vehicle at all times.

LKA, LDE and LTA offer varying degrees of driver assistance and lane monitoring to help prevent driver error that could lead to an accident. While some are more intrusive than others, these features can be turned on or off, or adjusted, depending on the driver’s preference.

Although there are many iterations of each system from automaker to automaker, each one is designed to offer peace of mind and greater safety while driving.

People who enjoy driving a car with a manual transmission love them with a passion and would never consider driving anything else. Sadly, however, manual vehicles are becoming increasingly rare. Only 20% of driving lessons conducted at driving schools, for example, are in a manual car.

It’s understandable why people would choose to drive an automatic – it’s easier, potentially cheaper on fuel, and you don’t have to think about the dreaded clutch. Throughout much of automotive history, manual transmissions were a standard in most cars and automatics were a luxury designed to relieve the driver of the skill and attention needed to shift gears.

Today, manufacturers offer automatic transmissions with a manual-like experience, such as direct-shift transmission (DSG), Tiptronic and paddle shifts.

Some companies have also stopped manufacturing manual versions of vehicles. For example, over a decade ago, 80% of new utility vehicles were sold with a manual transmission. Out of New Zealand’s top three selling commercial vehicles in 2020 – the Ford Ranger, Toyota Hilux and Mitsubishi Triton – only the Hilux still offers a manual transmission.

But if you’re wondering if getting a manual vehicle is worth it in 2021, here are some reasons why you shouldn’t completely write it off.

Cost

Generally, manual vehicles are cheaper than their automatic counterparts. Maintenance costs are also low, and they are relatively easy to service. The clutch is the only specific item that needs more maintenance and repair compared with an automatic, but this generally isn’t needed for thousands of kilometres. The gear and engine oils also deteriorate more slowly, so doesn’t need to be changed as frequently.

As they have a variety of more complex working parts, automatic transmissions can be costly to repair and usually need to be rebuilt at a specialist shop. In comparison, manual transmission issues are easier to diagnose and fix.

Performance

The best thing about driving a manual vehicle is having full control over the gears and when to shift. This lets the driver react more thoughtfully to whatever conditions are thrown their way. Braking is also a lot easier without the torque converter found in automatic vehicles. In particular, manual transmissions can be helpful for commercial vehicles carrying a heavy load, or towing.

Automatic transmissions are designed to choose the best gear for any situation, but as they tend to err on the side of caution, this can result in shifting to a higher gear too soon and wasting engine power. It can also make it slower to respond to unexpected conditions. Even though most of the latest automatic vehicle models come with a ‘manual’ mode, it’s seldom used over the long term.

Downsides of manual transmissions

As with anything, there are cons to manual transmission. Learning how to drive a manual can often take longer because you need to learn how and when to change gears and control the vehicle at the same time. It also requires precise control on hills to avoid stalling or rolling back.

It can also be tiresome to manage gear shifts in heavy traffic due to constant stopping, starting, and changing gears. And, as there are fewer and fewer manual cars on the market, it can make shopping for a new car challenging.

At the end of the day, it comes down to your personal preference. The manual vs automatic debate will continue until one or the other stops being produced in the market, with manual vehicles looking to be the likely loser as automated driving grows.

Hydrogen fuelled vehicles are being suggested as a potential transport option for the future but they’re yet to gain the same level of popularity as Electrical Vehicles (EVs). Also known as Fuel Cell Electric Vehicles (FCEVs), these are electric-powered cars with a hydrogen fuel cell system instead of the large battery pack that’s used in EVs.

FCEVs are more common in big cities around the world that have strict emissions regulations. Some of the major car brands have models such as the Honda Clarity, Toyota Mirai and Hyundai Nexo.

We’re starting to see FCEVs on New Zealand roads in the heavy transport sector. Initial testing has resulted in 20 Hyzon trucks being put on the road, fuelled by Hiringa’s nationwide hydrogen refuelling network, which includes Waitomo Group’s fuel stops.

Auckland Transport has also begun a two-year trial of hydrogen fuel cell buses, which will assess performance and compare operating costs compared with diesel and electric buses. The trial will cost $1.175 million and the estimated cost of transitioning to zero-emission buses is expected to be between $150 million to $200 million.

How does hydrogen vehicle technology work?

Hydrogen is pumped into the vehicle at a filling station, which is then used as fuel to generate electricity, which is used to power the wheels. It is stored in a secure fuel tank like petrol or diesel. Hydrogen fuel cells have a range of 300km plus.

How is hydrogen produced?

Hydrogen fuel cells produce electricity through electrochemical reactions between hydrogen and oxygen. When combined, it produces electrical energy and water vapour is emitted from the vehicle’s exhaust.

The benefits of hydrogen

The main benefit of FCEVs is that they produce no emissions at the tailpipe – just water. This understandably is a perfect solution to stop harmful emissions from large vehicles and machines. You can also fill an FCEV quickly at a fuel pump, which is faster than waiting for the same amount of range to be added to a battery pack in an EV – although this process is speeding up.

Why haven’t we moved to hydrogen?

Cost is a major factor in speeding up the move to FCEVs. While hydrogen might be an abundant resource on the planet, setting up a hydrogen filling station is expensive. In the USA, for example, there are only 49 hydrogen fuelling stations and, in the UK, most of them are in London. The cost to fill up an FCEV is also relatively expensive – the current cost in the USA is about four times that of petrol.

While there are both pros and cons to FCEVS, research points to it being the next big thing, with 78% of auto executives agreeing to this in a KPMG survey. High costs should naturally reduce over time as the technology develops. With trials already happening on New Zealand roads with heavy vehicles, it looks like it won’t be long before we start seeing FCEV passenger cars out and about.